Via Condotti 86, Campo Marzio
With its tiny marble-top tables and velour settees, this 200-year-old institution has long been the haunt of artists and literati; it's closed Sunday. Johann Wolfgang van Goethe, Byron, and Franz Liszt were habituÃ©s; Buffalo Bill stopped in when his road show hit Rome. It's still a haven for writers and artists, and for ladies carrying Gucci shopping bags.
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